Food
The food is simple, retro fare, carefully prepared. We started off with some nibbles in the forms of rice crackers! Then some fresh homemade bread, still warm from the often, spread simply with butter. I decided to pair my meal with a viognier 2006 French (£4). For starters I had the Mushrooms stuffed with crab and garlic, which were fragrant, beautiful, oily. The aroma hits you before the taste. A great start. The Fresh salmon cakes with a basil mayo was less successful, but the simplicity and the fresh ingredients lifted the dish from ordinary to something special.
Maybe because we were by the sea, but we decided to go for fish for the mains. The Marlin steak sauteed with lime and cream was nice and juicy, but as the steak was unadorned and the sauce very simple, the dish was really relying on the quality of the ingredients. However, the steak let it down in this case. The Scotch salmon boned escallope oven-baked with a red pesto, cheese and crumb crust had more flavour in the crust, but the fish itself was fresh, if a bit bland. So…still to be vowed by the seafood.
Desserts were varied, the Blackberry liqueur soufflee served frozen sounded interesting, and I even enquired how this would be served, but in reality, was just some very alcoholic ice-cream. The Gooseberry fool was more successful, rich, creamy clotted cream, paired with some sweet and juicy gooseberry. Very indulgent.
Rating - 6.5
Atmosphere
I knew before we came that this was going to be an intimate dining experience. Seating only 18 people in a small room with décor that reflects a past era, but in a tasteful way. We arrived first (in fact, we had the whole place to ourselves for one hour) and got to pick the best seat, right next to the bay window, so we could watch the passing parade. None of the décor was out of place, it made you feel relaxed, and reflected the style and presentation of the food.
Rating - 2
Service
Barry was there to greet us and made us feel welcome. We had a chat about our visit and how we should’ve visited the Royal Pavilion. I even had a chat with their waiter. Many are repeat customers and Barry knows them quite well, but he makes all feel welcomed. Service was very personal, but not so professional, which works quite well here.
Rating - 4
C-factor
Brighton is certainly not cheap, and our 3 courses was £25 each. They also add on a 15% service charge, which is even more expensive than London! At least their service was top notch, so they deserved it!
Rating - 0.5
Brownie Points - 13
Info
31 Upper North Street
Brighton
East Sussex
BN1 3FG
Phone +44 (0) 12 7332 8939
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